From the President

First of all, to you, our members, thank you for your support. It’s your support that keeps the Society running with purpose and provides a collective voice for the climbers of B.C.

Unfortunately, many memberships that have expired remain un-renewed, and this is resulting in our membership gradually becoming inactive. I’m not sure why - maybe you can tell us? Comments, thoughts and ideas are welcome - please tell us at "info@access-society.ca". Our strength is in our numbers, so losing members is not good for the Society. If our numbers continue to shrink because people are not renewing, we will lose credibility with all stakeholders in the sport of climbing, including local government, Parks and the climbing public itself. We urge you to renew your membership and to encourage your friends to join. You may be receiving this letter even though your membership has expired. This will change - expired members will be removed from our database. We will also be launching an aggressive campaign this spring to ask those expired members to renew, so expect a phone call!

Thankfully, 2009 was not a big year for negative access issues; in fact, it was quite the opposite. As you read on you will find out that Skaha finally had its new access and parking lot established, the Kootenays welcomed a new area guidebook with loads of new route information, and Squamish hosted another successful climbing festival and a host of new routes. It wasn’t all bliss, however. The Kicking Horse Canyon had access to the popular ice climbing restricted and the Bugaboos faced the possibility of user caps and via ferratas.

To find out more on these issues and other updates, please read on and stay in touch with your Society.

From the Treasurer

We currently have assets of $13,868. The major expenses for the 2009 fiscal year were: website design, insurance and CASBC T-shirts. The income statements are available upon request.

2010 Board of Directors

Your Board of Directors for 2010 is: Peter Winter (President), Jeremy Frimer (Vice President), Jan Mcphee (Secretary), Eva Boehringer (Treasurer), Jason Kruk, Greg Sorenson, Eric Goodwin, Jeff Kydd, Adam Conner, Sid Scull, Nick Elson.

I would like to thank outgoing Directors, Willy Nelson, Howie Richardson and especially Colin Dionne. Colin was the longest serving Director on the Board and after many years of representing the Powell River area, he has decided to leave the Society. A big thanks to Colin!

We had a successful AGM in Squamish in December with 27 attendees. Most of the discussion at the AGM is covered in this report. There were lots of prizes that were given away including a rope, camalot, gri-gri and plenty of other stuff. Special thanks to the gear providers: MEC, Black Diamond Equipment, Petzl and Cascade Designs. Also thanks to Sonnie Trotter and Jason Kruk for some fun slideshows to cap off the evening. If you think hosting the next AGM in your area would be successful, let us know!

Donations

The following people have donated $10 or more above the cost of their membership, since 2008 (names in no particular order):

Thank you! Gerhard Schmidt, Rolf Ryback, Eamonn Deegan, Peter Norris, Jeanette Inglis, , Michael Marcoux, Anders Ourum, Claude Tani, John Brodie, George Kokuryo, Howard Richardson, Kelly Franz, Doug Woods, Will Gadd, Joie Seagram & Dave Jones, Anne Marie Doucet, Eamonn Deegan, Elizabeth Grant, Claude Tani, Sean Sears, Kevin McLane, Rebecca Lee, Sandy Briggs, Gary Andolfatto, Gerhard Schmidt, Kimanda Jarzebiak, Kelly Moon, Brian Gould, Sheila Broughton, John Brodie.

Corporate Partners

The following companies provide us with financial and "gear" support:

Mountain Equipment Co-Op, Arc’Teryx, Black Diamond Equipment, Metolius, Petzl, Cascade Designs, Squamish Mountain Film Festival presented by Arc’Teryx, Cliffhanger, The Edge, Skaha Rock Adventures, Climb On Equipment, Boulders Climbing Gym, Ascent Public Affairs, Crag X Climbing Gym, Nice Climbing Holds, Romper Room Indoor Rock Climbing Gym, Thompson River University, Beyond the Crux Climbing Gym, Scott Flavelle & Co.

Club Partners

Alpine Club of Canada - Prince George & Vancouver Island Sections, Kootenay Mountaineering Club, Varsity Outdoor Club, Squamish Access Society, The Heathens.

Regional Reports

Okanagan

The beginning of 2009 saw a major change in the access to Skaha Bluffs. The old approach via Braeside Farm was finally closed, and a new road and parking lot up Smithe Road was completed. Large numbers of both climbers and hikers took advantage of the easier access. A paved parking area for 81 cars was opened in early April, and a new paved road was completed.

Local climbers welcomed this development, but argued that parking space was way too limited to handle long weekend crowds.

The May long weekend proved this true, with cars parked in every conceivable spot, and 92 cars were parked along the access road. Work began on an overflow lot, which was completed in July. There are now an additional 97 parking spaces, and two more toilets. The road was closed on Oct 31.

On September 24, the province made a splashy announcement about the creation of Skaha Bluffs Provincial Park. Legislation to create this park was introduced to fanfare and camera ops. It still needs to be passed. The Access Society representative will be meeting with BC Parks over the coming months to help smooth this transition.

New route development continues, and an updated guidebook is in the works. Significant retro-bolting and top anchor improvements have taken place. Meanwhile new route information can be downloaded at skaha.org.

West Kootenays

Outhouse at the Waterline Wall - as the local West Kootenay rep for CASBC, I've been looking into getting an outhouse installed somewhere in the vicinity of the Waterline Wall in Castlegar. Here's what has happened to date:

• Researched the land ownership around the crag - crag is sitting on private land, access is municipal, everything in the vicinity is zoned "urban reserve" in the Official Community Plan.
• Discussed the issue at the CASBC AGM in November. Pending a successful proposal submission and approval for the project, there may be funding available to build the structure.
• Wrote a letter to the City of Castlegar, outlining the situation (i.e. no toilet, lots of use, issues with waste) and set up a meeting with the Director of Transportation and Civic Works. Met and discussed why an outhouse would be a good idea. The outcome of the meeting was that the City is very risk averse, and while they have no problem with an outhouse being funded and built by a user group, they don't want to maintain it or have any kind of liability. They have no strong objections, however, to it sitting on municipal land. The city rep indicated that a proposal for the outhouse should be submitted addressing construction, maintenance and liability and they would review it.

To carry on in the process, we need to investigate some options around resolving the liability concerns of the City, and determining where an outhouse may best be located to ensure easy access but also minimize risk of vandalism. The trail along the Waterline Crag is heavily used by recreationists other than climbers, so there may be an opportunity to gain more support by lobbying a larger group. Stay tuned for further updates or for more information, contact Eva at eboehringer@access-society.ca.

We are also looking for ideas on current climbing areas that need better access. Grohman Narrows has been put forward as one idea, but if there are other suggestions for areas in the West Kootenays, please let me know. CASBC has potential funding available, based on the submission and approval of a funding application.

West Kootenay Rock Guide - this new guide book by Aaron Kristiansen and Vince Hempsall is now available and lists 22 crags and over 400 routes between Slocan City, Kaslo, Nelson, Castlegar and Rossland.

Kicking Horse Canyon

The current no parking regulations remain in place in Kicking Horse Canyon. The canyon is home to numerous world class winter routes such as Essondale, Pretty Nuts, and The Asylum. The canyon has been designated as an avalanche zone and as such, no stopping is permitted. CASBC has heard from some local climbers but information is sporadic and a solution does not seem possible at the moment. We are looking for any suggestions on possible solutions and how we can help.

Vancouver Island

There will be an event as usual in Nanaimo in September towards one of the last 2 weekends on the Sunny Side of the Nanaimo River.

It has already been a good start to another great season of cragging in and around Nanaimo. Several new routes were established over the winter season as well as continued work on trails at several of the crags around town.

The Sunny Side

On "The Sunny Side of the Nanaimo River." The work on the trails continues, unfortunately once again a few of the stair treads were damaged from a few partygoers and they are in the process of being replaced.

As well new routes have gone up in the lower range which is an added bonus for a lot of the new climbers in town and good warm ups for the more experienced. Watch for the opening of 2 new sections on this side of the river.

The Dark Side

At present it is one of the more popular areas around town and more so with visiting climbers from Victoria and abroad. It is now in need of some cleaning and this will start in the second week of July. The areas will be shut down for a few days and will reopen as the work progresses. Please have patience as the work is desperately needed. Trails will also be worked on over the summer season.

At present there is no toilet in the area and this is now becoming a serious issue. It is something everyone needs to think about before leaving there mess behind. We will address this issue as quick as we can.

Rutherford Ridges

With all the new development going in around here there are bound to be some issues eventually at present things seem to be ok and I have talked with the neighbors whose houses surround the now shorter access trail to "No River Gorge". If there are any issues I have asked him to call me so we can solve any potential problems.

The Steppes and Mt Copley Crags

Everything is all right here but you may be back to the long walk in as the owners are currently working on some issues and work has come to a bit of a standstill at present! So the first gate may be locked more often then not.

Horne Lake

No changes here although there has been some route activity over the winter.

Comox Lake

There was some new route activity here as well, there is rumour of an updated guide coming out in the near future.

Crest Creek Crags

New route activity continues at this excellent crag.

Flemming Beach, Esquimalt

The picturesque seaside area of Fleming Beach is a popular destination for fisherman, horizon-gazers, dog-walkers, and…climbers. It represents the closest (and most popular) established climbing cliff in proximity to downtown Victoria, and is popular with boulderers and top ropers. Although the crag is actually based in the Township of Esquimalt, it can be reached in about 10-15 minutes from the downtown core (by bike or car), and as such is a popular sunny afternoon playground for area climbers. Details can be found in Mark Freeborn’s "Rockclimbs of Victoria."

Since there had been no professional reviews completed at Fleming in several years, last fall the Esquimalt Parks and Recreation department asked that the area be inspected by a professional climbing guide. A report outlining the results of the inspection indicated several anchor bolts had noticeable corrosion; unfortunately years of wet coast rain, seaside mists, and other corrosive influences were starting to eat away at some of the older anchors. It was determined that these bolts should be replaced.

Brian Gould (Squamish-based ACMG mountain guide) completed the review as well as the retro-bolting. New stainless steel anchor bolts were placed close to previous anchors points in order to maintain consistency. The retrofitting was completed for the main bolts on 'The Overhang', and several of the stations at the top of the 'Right Side'. Two of the anchors were repositioned higher due to hazardous access, and/or poor placement contributing to rope drag. It is likely that all these new anchors will remain corrosion free for several years, however the intention is that regular safety inspections will occur on a more regular basis to limit degradation of the area, and continued access for all.

For climbers that use this area, please remember that you must purchase an annual pass. The fee is only $10, and is an important part of the agreement that keeps this area open for climbing and bouldering. Passes can be purchased at the Esquimalt Recreation Centre, 527 Fraser Street.

Thanks to the Township of Esquimalt (Andy Katschor), Ascent Public Affairs (Kimanda Jarzebiak), Brian Gould, and Mountain Equipment Co-op for donating time and resources to this project.

Squamish

This year has been an active one for Squamish climbing, including a number of access developments and new/renewed climbing routes. The main parking area for the Grand Wall, backside trail, and campground have been dramatically changed as a result of the Olympic Sea-to-Sky Improvement Project. Changes include:

• A new, protected left-turn lane into the parking area for southbound traffic (the turn lane is 200m south of the old parking lot);
• Additional parking areas below the Freeway Trail;
• A new footbridge over the highway to the Malamute;
• Additional tent pads in the campground
• A new “Apron Connector Trail”, which links the Grand Wall parking lot with the Apron parking lot at a safe distance from highway traffic.

The Smoke Bluffs is under the stewardship of the Smoke Bluff Park Committee, (which is a committee of Squamish Council) and they have made many improvements to the Park, such as:

• A new, dedicated climber/walker trail leaving the parking lot. The old trail remains for cyclists only, and an improved trail to Spiderfly
• The upgrading of many anchors at the top of climbs;
• Clearing a tree- and brush-free area at the base of popular climbing areas (e.g., Penny Lane) to make for a drier, more welcome climbing experience.
• Work in the Park is on-going

New/renewed route developments in Squamish include:

• Whinging Wife Wall at Murrin Park. This new wall has around seven well-protected trad and sport climbs in the 5.7-5.11 range.
• Genesis Wall at Murrin Park. This old wall was cleaned up and routes were added, with 5 routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range.
• Slab Alley (5.9) on the Apron was recently restored to its original glory.
• Upper Black Dyke on the Grand Wall. This 4-pitch, 5.10b climb goes from Bellygood Ledge to the rim of the Grand Wall. Retro work included trundling loose blocks, and cleaning up pitch 2 on the dyke itself to offer a well-protected, 5.9 alternative to the bold 5.10c off-dyke variant.
• A few new routes in the Dihedrals
• The Squaw has seen a lot of new route action, mainly left of Birds of Prey, which include an amazing 5.11 pitch called The Feather
• In the Bluffs, recleaning and addition of routes at Tunnel Rock, Mosquito, Split Beaver, Penny Lane, and Pink Cliff.
• Wire Tap on Olesen Creek Wall. This 5-pitch 5.10a climb is on the wall across from the Bulletheads behind the Chief, and is a 10 minute approach from the campground. The base area has a variety of long single pitch routes in the 5.8 to 5.11 range.
• Fern Hill – behind Mt. Crumpitt, off the Mamquam FSR, a few more routes were added now making a total of 16 sport routes and more on the way

Rogue’s Gallery Adopt-a-Crag

We had a successful Adopt a Crag type event at Rogue's during the climbing festival. The volunteer turnout was disappointing, but those that did come out put in a great days work and the crag was the better for it. Lots of prizes were given out and it’s safe to say everyone walked away with about $50 worth of stuff. Our thanks to the Squamish Access Society who co-hosted the event and our swag sponsors: MEC Black Diamond, Petzl, Cascade Designs, Arc’Teryx

CRAG

The Climbers Advisory Group is a committee made up of climbers that were appointed by the Squamish Access Society (SAS) to help update the Stawamus Chief, Shannon Falls and Murrin Provincial Parks Rock Climbing Strategy, on topics such as falcons and route cleaning. This is strictly an SAS initiative; however, they have offered CASBC representation on this committee through your President. The committee has made no recommendations at this time. SAS has more info through their website http://squamishaccess.ca/

Powell River

Stillwater bluffs

A development plan was submitted by the landowner but rejected by the regional district. A new plan will be submitted by the landowner. Both parties are aware of climbers intrest in this beautiful oceanside area.

Higgyland

Higgyland is threatened by realestate development. Discusssion is ongoing between climbers, the developer and the City to find a solution that allows climbing.

Eldred

Power Line construction in the Eldred is in full swing. The right of way has been cleared of timber. This has created no major problems for climbers. Please respect all warning signs and equipment working.

The seventh annual Eldred adopt-a-crag was held on the May long weekend. Again a fun and successful event. 23 volunteers showed up and repaired a section of the psyche slab trail damaged by rockfall. Work was also done on the B-branch bouldering trail. Everyone also enjoyed excellent climbing weather. Special thanks to Cascade Designs for providing draw prizes for the volunteers. Thanks also go out to Kiewitt and Sons for making an ongoing effort to accommodate the climber traffic.

Bugaboos

In 2008, B.C. Parks distributed a survey (“The BC Parks Survey”) asking park users and interested parties for their opinions on various issues regarding Bugaboo Provincial Park. (The survey can be downloaded at this link). Several months ago we encouraged our members to fill out the survey and provide their comments to B.C. Parks. However, we are not aware of how many of our members completed the survey and what the general consensus is regarding the Bugaboos.

Therefore, we also developed our own survey in a more open-ended format and wish to incorporate the responses into a coherent investigation of the issues. Forty-five CASBC members completed the survey in the spring of 2009. CASBC directors compiled the results into a report (download at this link). Members were largely against a via ferrata and a user cap, and suggested alternatives such as informational campaigns.

Bugaboo Provincial Park staff received the report and are considering it at this time. They are no longer considering a via ferrata option and have instead decided to launch an informational campaign (e.g., signage) to mitigate risks associated with the col and suggest alternate approaches when conditions are poor at the col. A user cap at 100 persons is likely to be implemented at Applebee campground. This number is above the highest number of users on the busiest day last year. If user rates increase and the cap begins to affect climbers, BC Parks will consider adding camping capacity in the vicinity. In the short term, the focus will be on adding facilities (e.g., latrines, food storage units, waste water management), and allowing camping in more sites (e.g., the Pigeon--Howser col). CASBC is supportive of BC Parks current direction and continues to be in dialog with Parks staff on these matters.

Adopt-a-Crag

We need your ideas for projects! There is a lot of money available and the Adopt-a-Crag event is one of the backbones of the Society. So please send us your suggestions for areas that require some work.

To encourage and support that access work, CASBC Directors have decided to create an application process to have access projects (e.g., trails, outhouses) supported with funds and free gear give-aways from corporate sponsors. The 1-page application form will be available soon. If you have an access project that could use some support, please submit an application.

WE NEED YOUR HELP!

Adopt-a-crag projects

Please use the application form and send us your ideas for a project in your area.

Website

We also need your help with content for our website. We can’t possibly know of all the climbing areas in the Province. So if you know of some areas that are not represented, please send us a note with the area and a description of it, and we’ll put it on the site. Also, some of the areas that are on the site need better information, feel free to send us your local knowledge.

Notes

The Access Society faces many challenges in our pursuit of public access to, and conservation of, B.C.'s cliffs and mountains. We need your support - please renew your membership, make a donation, get a friend to join, or volunteer! We believe the Access Society is doing an important job, and effectively represents the entire climbing community of B.C.

Climbing and related activities are dangerous, and can injure or kill you. The Access Society tries to ensure that this information is accurate, but you rely on it at your own risk!

Your Board of Directors

• President, Peter Winter, Squamish
• Vice President, Jeremy Frimer, North Vancouver/Squamish
• Secretary, Jan McPhee, Vancouver
• Treasurer, Eva Boehringer
• Jason Kruk, North Vancouver/Squamish
• Jeff Kydd, Vancouver
• Sid Scull, Okanagan
• Jan McPhee
• Nick Elson
• Adam Conner
• Eric Goodwin, South Vancouver Island
• Greg Sorensen, North Vancouver Island

Renewals

This may take some time to organize as we transfer to the electronic way of doing things, so you may get an email or even phone call. But in the meantime if you haven't paid in the last year please go to www.access-society.ca and pay online through paypal.

What's going on?

You are our eyes and ears, so if you see an access related issue let us know and we'll spread the word!

Pass it on

If you know someone who may be interested in receiving this newsletter, you can easily forward up to five copies at once.